The No4 is likely a type 13 (1925-1928) -Sweetheart based on the one patent date. The No 5 is harder based on the pictures - really need to see the frog and lateral level - but since it has the taller front knob, larger depth adjuster no raised rib at toe and heel - probably a type 15 (1931-1932) another sweetheart.

the rest would charge me

do a search for Stanley Hand Plane types. I have a really good chart that I printed off, but I forgot where I got it.  But there are several sites that will give you a way to tell what type ( year range) for Stanley Planes.

I have to planes No4 No5

I did see your post before I responded to Michael... I have a couple that used bronze rods, I guess it was since they are bronze color.  I have one that the people did such a good job, I could not even tell till I took off the frog.   As long as it's flat enough to work, it will work just fine. I do not believe that the sole must be machinist flat. Wood moves all the time, never going to get it true flat and if you did it wont stay that way long....

95% of them are broken in the same place. find a competent welder that knows how to weld/braze cast iron and make sure they understand that the sole needs to be mostly completely flat. Any crazy unflatness can be filed down to almost flat, then you can use it or lap it to your liking.    I have a few that where broken and welded or brazed that work just fine since they where done right

Wow, that cleaned up beautifully.

I just had a 604 plane repaired that had a crack from the top of the cheek all the way through the mouth. The welder used nickel rod with a TIG welder and did a fantastic job.  The repair almost blends completely away if not for some minor pitting around it.  Brazing is an option, but I've never used one repaired like that so I don't know how well it lasts/works.

I can't find an exact on but it looks west German or Soviet

I started using vinegar, then shifted to evaporust, and have now landed at the homemade recipe Scott is referring to. It works just as good as evaporust at a fraction of the cost.

I have never had any pitting issues with vinegar and I do re use it till it's just nasty black, it basically just quits working. Evaporust I am sure is way better then vinegar, but I myself am cheap LOL. Plus my wife cooks and cleans a lot with vinegar, so we always have a lot on hand, we buy it by the case sometimes. I forgot to mention about the japanning with vinegar is the same with ER, if it's already loose it will come off, sometimes I forget to type all my words!.   However, paint that is sticking good will not come of on with vinegar unless you leave some old wrenches in the bucket for a month after forgetting about them.

I think you are right, I saw the same video maybe 3 months ago....

I might be wrong but I have heard it called calf's and cows. And that it is there because who ever Sharpened it didn't know what they were doing. I believe there is a video on YouTube by Wood By Wright that goes into depth.

Why are these teeth (in the upper blade) cut this way? I have a backsaw with these teeth. It has the finer teeth for about 2” at either end of the blade. There are no indications who made it. The larger handle nut is decorated but no name or insignia is visible. It appears to be a dove tail saw but is very big for that. It is 19” overall and has a 14” blade.

The inverted L-shaped lateral adjustment lever was typical of Millers Falls. They frequently had red paint on the frogs.  If there is no red paint on the frog it is possibly a Dunlap, MF made some models for Dunlap as well.  Go to justtheplanefacts.com to check.  I hope this is helpful.

What you have there is a Moving Filletster Plane. I’m not familiar with the maker but most likely German.

No problem at all.. No, not a silly endeavor at all, just look as it as getting practice and possibly making a ground breaking discovery, well that might be a much, but some of the store brands make good planes...

Scott, I appreciate all of the time that went into this. It’s probably a silly endeavor but I might still restore it. I’d love to find out who made it and maybe that’ll come out in the restoration!

Take it apart, find your self a container and a few gallons of cheap vinegar and let it soak for a few hours, or over night. Vinegar will eat the rust and turn the metal black. You can cut the vinegar 50/50 with water, but it will still turn black. The black will sand off just fine, but you have to wipe the metal down with oil/WD-40 or the bare metal will flash rust. I left a very rusty, way worse then yours #3 size craftsman in vinegar for 2 weeks (I forgot about it) and I was able to take it apart and clean it all up just fine. Oh, the vinegar may take off the japanning, I have had some that it did not hurt, some it did, but a lot of store brands did not have japanning anyway.

Most of the "store brand" planes had there name stamped in the iron and the bodies where made by Stanley, Sargent, Millers Falls or a couple others for hundreds of places so no markings. Take some 250 grit sand paper and clean up the top of the front of the iron you can use WD-40 to lube it up for sanding if you worry about scratches, there should be something stamped in it. But there are some that where not stamped and may have had stickers on them that just never survived. I see a Goodwill sticker on it, heck the iron is worth that as long as it's not pitted. That tote may be original, a lot of the store brands had random sized/wood type totes, it's like they just used what ever was laying around. some are comfortable, some are miserly made.