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It is either my chuck is worn out, or the arthritis in my hands, or both.. But since I have the same issue with my cordless drill, I think it's my hands, but then again my cordless drill is maybe 15 years old and almost worn out....LOL
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Yes, they are perfectly round on the shank, not hex like the ones for the power drills. Those slip. Frustrating as no one on the island has the old round ones in any sort of savable condition. No rush! I will just wait until I see someone offering an affordable small set.
I use just regular bits in my egg beater, mostly for pilot holes. mine do slip now and then, but I just can not tighten the chuck up tight enough anymore. I have been thinking about using a file to make some "platforms" for the chuck to grab onto, but I have not gotten that far.
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You can get an adapter for the Yankees push drill. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers/57809-hex-adapter-for-yankee-screwdrivers
I did not know that such a thing was made, I never go on leevally site, I always figured they where expensive. But just a little over $10, I think that is not bad to be able to use the old drivers, it's cheaper then buying the correct bits. I may just have to order one and see how I like it... thanks for the info!
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Well...Then I guess I will have to figure out what type of bit fits the tools that I own, Since I have no bits, I have nothing to compare to what works with what. I just ended up with several in box lots and thought "hey these are cool, I'll keep and use them".. but maybe I might have o rethink this....
Yes, indeed :-) !!! It is frustrating to have a beautiful, well-machined (and maybe even restored) tool, and not have a clue of what fits into it to make it useful in the shop.
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Alex, these are the bits that I use in my old egg beater. They actually don’t slip and work fine.
Yes, they are perfectly round on the shank, not hex like the ones for the power drills. Those slip. Frustrating as no one on the island has the old round ones in any sort of savable condition. No rush! I will just wait until I see someone offering an affordable small set.
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Well...Then I guess I will have to figure out what type of bit fits the tools that I own, Since I have no bits, I have nothing to compare to what works with what. I just ended up with several in box lots and thought "hey these are cool, I'll keep and use them".. but maybe I might have o rethink this....
You can get an adapter for the Yankees push drill. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/screwdrivers/57809-hex-adapter-for-yankee-screwdrivers
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Well...Then I guess I will have to figure out what type of bit fits the tools that I own, Since I have no bits, I have nothing to compare to what works with what. I just ended up with several in box lots and thought "hey these are cool, I'll keep and use them".. but maybe I might have o rethink this....
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So, to answer your question; I don’t think they are all the same. 🤔
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They don’t have the notch and are double sided.
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And I have these bits which also work in the push drills -
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Are all the push/yankee drill bits made the same? the photos I have seen just look like a round shank with a notch cut into it. I have several yankee screw drivers that I find cool and would like to use, but I have no bits. So, I have the idea of making a 1/4 modern adapter work into a yankee screwdriver. However not having any bits to compare to I am not sure exactly how each screw driver locks onto the bits, or it they are all the same. So does anyone have a few different types/brands of "yankee" screw drivers an can tell me if the locking mechanism works the same on them all? also what is the diameter of the shank of the bit? thanks in advance..
I have some yankee drivers and bits and they have the bits like the ones I posted above, with the notch.
I also have some other brands of push drivers and their bits also have the notch.
And I have several push/ratcheting screwdrivers that have the same design with the notch.
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I don't know, but my modern 6-sided DeWalt drill bits slip (don't tighten sufficiently) in the old excellent condition three-piece jaw of my egg-beater drill, not to mention I think they are too aggressive for the egg-beater. i wouldn't mind hearing about what bits the old egg-beaters used, as well as the push/Yankee tools.
Alex, these are the bits that I use in my old egg beater. They actually don’t slip and work fine.
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I don't know, but my modern 6-sided DeWalt drill bits slip (don't tighten sufficiently) in the old excellent condition three-piece jaw of my egg-beater drill, not to mention I think they are too aggressive for the egg-beater. i wouldn't mind hearing about what bits the old egg-beaters used, as well as the push/Yankee tools.
Yankee bits for the push tools
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I could use a cap iron for a Millers Falls #3. Anyone have a spare?
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From what I can tell with out having a bit, there is a small slit in the bit that the tool holds. Just sticking a 1/4 " bit in there spins on the "grooved" part. So maybe this summer (I don't weld in the basement, it tries to burn down the house, don't ask how I know LOL) I will try welding up all but one side of the grooved part in an old 1/4" bit and see what happens.
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I don't know, but my modern 6-sided DeWalt drill bits slip (don't tighten sufficiently) in the old excellent condition three-piece jaw of my egg-beater drill, not to mention I think they are too aggressive for the egg-beater. i wouldn't mind hearing about what bits the old egg-beaters used, as well as the push/Yankee tools.
Huh, I never thought about using an egg beater drill...
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I don't know, but my modern 6-sided DeWalt drill bits slip (don't tighten sufficiently) in the old excellent condition three-piece jaw of my egg-beater drill, not to mention I think they are too aggressive for the egg-beater. i wouldn't mind hearing about what bits the old egg-beaters used, as well as the push/Yankee tools.
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the 1/4 modern adapter for a drill driver is what I mean, so I can use Phillips and Roberson screw Torx bits etc.
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Are all the push/yankee drill bits made the same? the photos I have seen just look like a round shank with a notch cut into it. I have several yankee screw drivers that I find cool and would like to use, but I have no bits. So, I have the idea of making a 1/4 modern adapter work into a yankee screwdriver. However not having any bits to compare to I am not sure exactly how each screw driver locks onto the bits, or it they are all the same. So does anyone have a few different types/brands of "yankee" screw drivers an can tell me if the locking mechanism works the same on them all? also what is the diameter of the shank of the bit? thanks in advance..
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Does anyone have spare legs for an early model Stanley miter box? I think mine is a 60.
That might be a little hard to find. I see the whole things for sale every now and then, but never the parts. I have one like that that I need a few parts for as well, but only see full units with high shipping. If you have all the parts, have someone weld it back together. If they do a good job and grind the welds correctly, a little repaint and no one will ever know!
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I mean a 50
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Does anyone have spare legs for an early model Stanley miter box? I think mine is a 60.
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I'm looking for a set of molding plane irons for a Stanley 55. Inherited the tool, but I've only got the one blade. E-bay has sets of them, but whoa, they're pricey. Looks like lots of folks are selling pristine original boxes and such: I just want the metal. even rusty piles of metal would be okay. Anyone?
It's not a definite that these will work for a 55, but it seems that anything that works with a 45 would work with a 55 (though not true in the other direction). I was looking on youtube for tips about using the 45 and saw a comment that Lee Valley makes a combination plane and that all the irons they sell on there work with the 45. You may be able to find what you need on there. Still not exactly cheap, but it's a source. Beyond that, might be worth grabbing some tool steel and cutting your own shapes as you need them. Seems like a pain but if you need a particular shape it's an option.
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I'm doing some green woodworking and the stock is too big for a hatchet.
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Looking for a hewing axe/broad axe head similar to this one to restore as a user.
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Hi, I'm looking for a no. 4 1/2. I don't have a brand preference necessarily, but Stanley is preferred
4 1/2 are a little on the hard to find side, there are a couple on eBay right now, one I think is missing the knob and tote that is not to expense yet. I actually got mine from the UK, it was cheaper to buy and pay the shipping then to buy one in the US. I used mine a little, but that thing is a beast LOL...
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I've got a four handyman stanley
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I'm looking for a set of molding plane irons for a Stanley 55. Inherited the tool, but I've only got the one blade. E-bay has sets of them, but whoa, they're pricey. Looks like lots of folks are selling pristine original boxes and such: I just want the metal. even rusty piles of metal would be okay. Anyone?
The irons are worth more then the actual plane in most cases. Even rusty piles of mix matched irons/blades are expensive. You might have luck getting them a little cheaper in the UK on eBay, but the shipping can be expensive too
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I can do restoration work myself if it's not in good condition.
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Hi, I'm looking for a no. 4 1/2. I don't have a brand preference necessarily, but Stanley is preferred
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I'm looking for a set of molding plane irons for a Stanley 55. Inherited the tool, but I've only got the one blade. E-bay has sets of them, but whoa, they're pricey. Looks like lots of folks are selling pristine original boxes and such: I just want the metal. even rusty piles of metal would be okay. Anyone?
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Thanks Scott, plane is above
No problem.. I do not know much about the wooden planes, I do not really deal with them at all, got a couple, but I try to stay away from them myself. I did see this aution this morning with my daily search on ebay.https://www.ebay.com/itm/256807965219?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=v1j3t3WKTty&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=KYSMdXJ2SG6&widget_ver=artemis&media
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Thanks Scott, plane is above
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*it
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My plow plane has an iron just shy of 1/2 inches, need some more irons for different grooves, metric or imperial are fine.
I assume you are referring to a wooden plow plane, if not ir would be handy to know what your plow is/number. If a wooden, I saw 2 listings on ebay this morning I think there was 5 or so in each auction. No idea the price, I just scrolled past them..
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My plow plane has an iron just shy of 1/2 inches, need some more irons for different grooves, metric or imperial are fine.
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I’m looking for a cheap Stanley no. 5
Looking for any certain type/year? Do you want one ready to work, or do you want one to rework yourself? What is your price range? I have several that are in line to sell on here, but all need to be cleaned up and sharpened.
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I’m looking for a cheap Stanley no. 5
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Knife sharpeners all over Bolivia using bicycle wheels as pulleys and treadles. These guys really can get a keen edge.
Now that is interesting, I like it!!
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Knife sharpeners all over Bolivia using bicycle wheels as pulleys and treadles. These guys really can get a keen edge.
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If you cannot find one Peter Follansbee had a DIY article about building one in Fine Woodworking. It was posted August 7, 2024 and called Spring Pole Turning. I also recall seeing one on the Woodwright Shop program.
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Scott, you can build almost any man powered machine from treadle sewing machines. I have even seen a router/shaper made from one.
I have been wondering about how well it would work to use a treadle sewing machine to power woodworking tools, I just was not sure if the sewing machine would turn fast enough, but I guess you can always ad smaller pulleys..I may need to google search photos of people building something like that, I would like to see it...Cool!
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Scott, you can build almost any man powered machine from treadle sewing machines. I have even seen a router/shaper made from one.
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Looking for a working treadle lathe.
Ah, that may be a hard one to find..... there is a metal lathe on marketplace that was treadle and converted to power. I forgot where it was located, but I found it in the Lexington Ky marketplace. But a wood treadle lathe, I have never seen for sale anywhere, I wonder if you could make one out of the treadle sewing machine base??
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Looking for a working treadle lathe.
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Hey y'all, I'm looking to find some square end auger bits, sizes: 11,13,15 to complete my working set. I'll consider any condition! If possible I'm also looking for size 17,19,20 as well. 🤘
Square end? are you just talking about an auger bit for a brace? I have not heard them referred to as square end bits before. I had some large sizes that I sold on here a while back, they are hard to find. I may have 11,13 & 15, I will have to look. Do you want Irwin Style (single flute) or Jennings style (double flute) maybe some call it spiral rather then flute.
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Hey y'all, I'm looking to find some square end auger bits, sizes: 11,13,15 to complete my working set. I'll consider any condition! If possible I'm also looking for size 17,19,20 as well. 🤘
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I need a chip breaker and lever cap for a Millers Falls model 24.
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Chris Hanson, here’s a couple I found. Not sure if it’s what you’re looking for or if there decently priced but thought it could be helpful. https://www.ebay.com/itm/285955420719?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=285955420719&targetid=2299003535955&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9012740&poi=&campaignid=21214315381&mkgroupid=161363866036&rlsatarget=pla-2299003535955&abcId=9407526&merchantid=113781414&gad_source=4&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh86FUY0IK7RuYjmHZ4gxiYqF&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyoi8BhDvARIsAO_CDsDYoKpNq0Ee5_xjO8jcxrEs3oKYjflPipKaG2H0peXsHNWhyT1NSPQaAhbtEALw_wcB
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No, I have the Veritas carcass saws for small stuff. Just a crosscut panel saw.
I have a disston thumbhole crosscut 26". But it's an odd duck 5½ point.
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I'm looking for a saw set 42x. eBay is pricing them like they are gold.
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Does anyone have a 15 ppi hand saw file?
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Does anyone have a two man saw front handle for sale? I have a customer looking for one. I sharpen his saw and he does trail maintenance for our local hiking trail club.
I see them from time to time on Fee Bay, but I am sure someone on here has one, just wait a while for a reply, most people do not check this site every day, or at least reply fast, including myself LOL...
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Does anyone have a two man saw front handle for sale? I have a customer looking for one. I sharpen his saw and he does trail maintenance for our local hiking trail club.
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Yes, received, looking forward to descriptions and photos. Oh, I finally got the chat to work on Edge (and I have sworn to never use Microsoft products, but nothing else works).
I use chrome and have no issues with the site, but maybe I am lucky!
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Yes, received, looking forward to descriptions and photos. Oh, I finally got the chat to work on Edge (and I have sworn to never use Microsoft products, but nothing else works).
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The chat on this site barely works for me, and not at all on most browsers. Don't understand why my message about the grinder is attached to Nick Sarrell's post without even an avatar.
I sent you some messages today.
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The chat on this site barely works for me, and not at all on most browsers. Don't understand why my message about the grinder is attached to Nick Sarrell's post without even an avatar.
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Hello! I am looking for a "Hand Crank Clamp Bench Grinder" for using modern day wire wheels, and rough grinding old chisels and a few garden tools. I may try and figure out a way to attach hand carved small handles for sanding. No need for anything vintage or collectible or good-looking, but I do need it in excellent working order and worth cleaning up the outside and might paint it back to the original color. Yes, I do see them on eBay but have no idea of how well they work and don't trust collector's idea of "working good". I also need some sort of drilling guide, the simpler the better. I do mostly joinery at home but lately have been renewing my old toolbox tools for the next generation and making "new" things out my junk box. So, I am always on the lookout for things like, for example, a 1/2" ratchet socket (which I need for tool I just made with a small pile of rusty sockets). I am on a small island in the Caribbean and nearly 80 years old and on a low, poor country budget. Shipping is to Miami and transshipped by boat.
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I believe that he is based in the US as well, he's got lots of replacement parts.
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Yes, well, I'm American also. I didn't realize that Faithful didn't ship to the US, however, here's one on eBay that is for the Stanley #78: https://www.ebay.com/itm/333865201223?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=d294a3dce7b415886aeac4abd5549c44
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For those who needed replacement parts for the Stanley #78, Faithfull sells new re-makes (not sure how good they are yet):
Cool, that is good to know, however shipping to the US from the UK may get expensive for us over here. I do not think that the 778 is the same as the #78 in the US anyway as our 78's and clones only have one slide rod for the fence. I do think that 2 is better, but ours are not made to take the second rod. Also the treads and bolt sizes for anything made in the UK will not work on anything older in the US, remember we still use Empirical Standard measurements, we Americans just can't get why anyone would want to use the Metric System, it's just so complicated!! Kidding!! I used it for over 20 years doing archaeology, so much easier then fractions!
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For those who needed replacement parts for the Stanley #78, Faithfull sells new re-makes (not sure how good they are yet):
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I was able to get the plane cleaned up awhile back and, though I’ve never used a bailey pattern I was still able to get really good smoothing shavings. The issue arose when I needed to do some scrub plane work and had to spend 2 hours changing it over to scrub plane settings and then having to also set it back up for smoothing abilities. I ended up just leaving it as a scrub as most of what I do right now doesn’t have to be super clean. Again, im fine with any plane so long as it works well whether that be a handyman or a bedrock. Just want to clarify that I do not want nor can afford a bedrock. I mainly wanted a Bailey because I thought they were better than the handyman line and thought I might as well buy a better plane for a smoother. If you or anyone else has a decent number 4 or even a handyman line number 5 I would be interested in it. I could always buy a cheaper plane and return my current one to smoother status. Thanks for all the help.
I have a few #5's that I bought a box full of, may have a Handyman, not sure. I opened the box, said Ooo I am keeping that one myself (#5 1/4), I will sell the rest, so they went back in the box o to the "I really got to fix these up and sell" pile
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I was able to get the plane cleaned up awhile back and, though I’ve never used a bailey pattern I was still able to get really good smoothing shavings. The issue arose when I needed to do some scrub plane work and had to spend 2 hours changing it over to scrub plane settings and then having to also set it back up for smoothing abilities. I ended up just leaving it as a scrub as most of what I do right now doesn’t have to be super clean. Again, im fine with any plane so long as it works well whether that be a handyman or a bedrock. Just want to clarify that I do not want nor can afford a bedrock. I mainly wanted a Bailey because I thought they were better than the handyman line and thought I might as well buy a better plane for a smoother. If you or anyone else has a decent number 4 or even a handyman line number 5 I would be interested in it. I could always buy a cheaper plane and return my current one to smoother status. Thanks for all the help.
Oh, OK.. and yeah, Bedrock, not worth the money in my opinion... What I would do is buy a #5 sized plane, use it as it was meant to be, both a smother and a rough worker. Use the #4 as a smooth plane, and just adjust the depth if need a little more depth. OR, they are a pain to set up and you have to get creative to keep the iron in place. BUT, a Harbor Freight #33 Windsor Design plane makes a good scrub plane and there $13.00. I use one as my scrub most of the time, between that and a junk wooden jack plane unless I feel fancy and use my Japanese scrub, but it's hard to use on my bench. Try the Harbor Freight as a scrub, but like I said it's a pain to set up and keep the iron in place, but once you do, it works fine. and it's $13.00
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I was able to get the plane cleaned up awhile back and, though I’ve never used a bailey pattern I was still able to get really good smoothing shavings. The issue arose when I needed to do some scrub plane work and had to spend 2 hours changing it over to scrub plane settings and then having to also set it back up for smoothing abilities. I ended up just leaving it as a scrub as most of what I do right now doesn’t have to be super clean. Again, im fine with any plane so long as it works well whether that be a handyman or a bedrock. Just want to clarify that I do not want nor can afford a bedrock. I mainly wanted a Bailey because I thought they were better than the handyman line and thought I might as well buy a better plane for a smoother. If you or anyone else has a decent number 4 or even a handyman line number 5 I would be interested in it. I could always buy a cheaper plane and return my current one to smoother status. Thanks for all the help.
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I got it up and working but I’m just starting out with hand tool woodworking and made the mistake of buying a handyman model and it isn’t the best even after all the work I’ve done to it. The main thing I need is a decent Bailey pattern number 4 plane
Others will surly yell at me, but there is really not much difference between a Bailey and Handyman Stanley on most years. Yes cosmetic, maybe cheaper wood etc, but the overall build is nearly the same, maybe just a little less quality control. There for, more work to get it tuned up well, but if a Handyman is tuned correctly it should work just as good as a Bailey. The Handyman was just a lower priced hand plane, Handyman replaced Defiance line, but put the 2 lines together and they where produced for almost 70 years.. So that would be like saying that a 1984 Chevy Monti Carlo was inferior to the 84 Pontiac Grand Prix. They where the same car, just looked a little different!
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Hey. I need a few tools, but am on a pretty tight budget. I need both a round bottom spokeshave, or tradition tanged if they could be cheaper, and I need a good Stanley Bailey no4 hand plane, and a good backsaw, preferably in the carcass size. I’m not opposed to a little bit of repair work and cleaning as my current plane had dried,oily wood dust and rat droppings in the mouth of the plane, just so long as their are no cracks or deep pitting rust. If anyone has or knows of anything I would be very appreciative.
There is a guy on here that has a lot of saws, not sure what all he has, just look him up in the sales list and ask. I will have some Stanley #4's in hand soon, I have several clones, but no #4 Stanley brand at the moment. But should in a few days, and will see what I can do. As far as cleaning, that sounds like a walk in the park to clean, just use some 1/2 White Vinegar 1/2 H20, let it soak about 15 min, scrub with old tooth brush, keep it up till it's good, then Dawn and H20 and wash again. Just be sure to WD40 any bare metal as it will flash rust on you. I do all my planes this way, I had one so bad it was left 2 weeks, did not hurt the japanning or the painted frog (Craftsman #2 size) I have not finished it up, it's a keeper, but I think it will turn into a great user, if a #2 was worth using...
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Mine is USA. I have not dated it yet. The screws that support the lever cap are with the plane. The lever cap and it’s tension screw are missing as well as the plane iron.
Obie, the parts I have will not work on yours, sorry.
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Thank you. I am willing to buy other brands as long as they work well. If you would know of anywhere online I could buy one I would be very appreciative.
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Keep in mind it's not a Stanley but their still very good, back before the ww2 Craftsman hands we're made by Millers Falls. My first couple planes that a got few years back were Millers Falls made Craftsmans. I have found them to be very nice on a tight Budget. There usually less then 10$. I hope that helps if you willing to compromise out of a Stanley
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That does sound like a good idea and I’ll make sure to try it on my next repair.
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I got it up and working but I’m just starting out with hand tool woodworking and made the mistake of buying a handyman model and it isn’t the best even after all the work I’ve done to it. The main thing I need is a decent Bailey pattern number 4 plane
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Hey. I need a few tools, but am on a pretty tight budget. I need both a round bottom spokeshave, or tradition tanged if they could be cheaper, and I need a good Stanley Bailey no4 hand plane, and a good backsaw, preferably in the carcass size. I’m not opposed to a little bit of repair work and cleaning as my current plane had dried,oily wood dust and rat droppings in the mouth of the plane, just so long as their are no cracks or deep pitting rust. If anyone has or knows of anything I would be very appreciative.
If your have a hard time cleaning the gunk out of you plane. It worked for me to use dawn power wash and let it set for a minute or two after to sprayed it. I found it won't strip the Japannig, and cleans it amazingly
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Hey. I need a few tools, but am on a pretty tight budget. I need both a round bottom spokeshave, or tradition tanged if they could be cheaper, and I need a good Stanley Bailey no4 hand plane, and a good backsaw, preferably in the carcass size. I’m not opposed to a little bit of repair work and cleaning as my current plane had dried,oily wood dust and rat droppings in the mouth of the plane, just so long as their are no cracks or deep pitting rust. If anyone has or knows of anything I would be very appreciative.
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Obie, is your 78 an English or USA made, they have different sized screws so the lever cap is different.
Mine is USA. I have not dated it yet. The screws that support the lever cap are with the plane. The lever cap and it’s tension screw are missing as well as the plane iron.
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Converting a 8 to a scrub plane? I have not seen that video, I will have to check that out as I have several incomplete ones. Seems they all are missing the same parts and are in every "Box O Planes" I end up with. I will have to check that out!
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Paul Sellers also has a video on converting a #78 into a scrub plane. There are a lot of those missing the fence and depth adjuster, and they can be found pretty cheap that way. You don't need those parts for a scrub plane. It appeared to work really well as a scrub plane in Paul's hands.
Converting a 8 to a scrub plane? I have not seen that video, I will have to check that out as I have several incomplete ones. Seems they all are missing the same parts and are in every "Box O Planes" I end up with. I will have to check that out!
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I know Paul sellers has a video of converting a no. 4 into a scrub plane. Great place to start.
Paul Sellers also has a video on converting a #78 into a scrub plane. There are a lot of those missing the fence and depth adjuster, and they can be found pretty cheap that way. You don't need those parts for a scrub plane. It appeared to work really well as a scrub plane in Paul's hands.
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I don't have an extra fence, I didn't get everything I was supposed to have gotten... I will figure out if I can send the depth stop 1st class or not and then let you know the $$.. give me a few day..
Sounds good. Thank you!
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I am looking for a plane iron and lever cap with fastener for a number 78 plane.
Obie, is your 78 an English or USA made, they have different sized screws so the lever cap is different.
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Great, thank you!
I don't have an extra fence, I didn't get everything I was supposed to have gotten... I will figure out if I can send the depth stop 1st class or not and then let you know the $$.. give me a few day..
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I have the depth stop.. the photo with 2 is my craftsman 78 clone's for comparison... I'll hold the depth stop for you till I see if I have extra fence or not, save you on shipping costs...
Great, thank you!
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I have the depth stop.. the photo with 2 is my craftsman 78 clone's for comparison... I'll hold the depth stop for you till I see if I have extra fence or not, save you on shipping costs...
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Sounds good, thank you!
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I'll look for the depth stop in the morning, the rest I am not sure, I have a bunch of stuff I have bought that I have not gotten yet,Might get them this weekend, I hope....
Sounds good, thank you!
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I'll look for the depth stop in the morning, the rest I am not sure, I have a bunch of stuff I have bought that I have not gotten yet,Might get them this weekend, I hope....
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