Man that chair back looks smooth!!!!

Here are the latest couple of projects. I made a 3 string cigar box guitar for my daughter who is music teacher in an elementary school.  Birch dovetailed for the box sides, maple ply for the top and bottom and poplar for the neck.   Of course the first words out of her mouth was "were's the stand" , made from birch.  Both finished in shellac.  The current project is a tea box for the same daughter.  Birch and will have a acrylic window, stained walnut or mahogany , not sure yet.

Working on one of the staked chairs from the Anarchist’s Design Book. This one is southern yellow pine construction lumber with oak dowel sticks.

Looks good!

It’s pretty nice so far. It has held up pretty well. It has twisted a bit but the cross braces have held it down pretty well. I’ve had to add some new wedges because when it dried the leg mortises shrunk up. I’m still trying to figure out the best vise to put on it. Really wanting a leg vise but the screws are so expensive. I would definitely recommend making one.

I have been looking for a project for my Wana wood. That looks like a good one since my 3"x3" wood is not heavy but is solid. At least the legs. Might need a light but not so splinter prone top. Good work, looks California earthquake proof as I live CA.

I have been thinking about making one of these, but I ended up selling all my extra chisels. Well, all the extra extras LOL.. I need to try and make one of these. I do like the wing nuts for the fence, that will make it easier to adjust I think....

I had some cherry and walnut my grandpa gave me so I decided to make a rabbit plane somewhat following Rex’s from memory and somewhat older ones I’ve seen in antique stores and online. Decided to use a chisel as an iron but went ahead and skipped the laminated construction of Rex’s and went straight to chiseling out the bed. Went good enough but for a small bit of a leftward slant in the bed I fixed with a bit of filing and extra chiseling. The fence uses some nuts pounded into cherry sole and then a bit of thread from a cutoff bolt as well as some wing nuts so I don’t have to get a screwdriver anytime I want to change the fence setting. The cherry actually has some really weird grain that looks kind of spotted.

7/8" ain't to bad, it must be a newer house. I saw the gap on the left side and figured the floor was unlevel. A little fancy trim work and no one will ever notice....

Yes, was originally an opening for a Murphy bed and the customer changed their mind so, switched gears. That concrete floor is about 7/8” out of level in that 6’. Thankfully it’s paint grade!!!🤷🏻‍♂️

Nice!!

And that is why I do nothing with out at least 2 cups of coffee! LOL

Figured it out. Had confused myself wand was trying to drive the big end instead of the little end. A couple cups of coffee later, the fog lifted and I realized my error.

oops!          try doing something with it you don't where you would not want the handle to fall out and it will just jump off! LOL

Using a scrub plane on dry orange osage was tearout city. It works, but there's lots of cleanup to do. Next time around I'd use a jack plane to thin the stock to see if I could reduce deep tearout.

The problem I have with a lot of the factory totes is it cramps my hand if the horn has not been broken off. So on some of my planes I have to extend my pinky just as well as my index finger so that my hand is not cramped. But some totes I have no issue at all, so tend to grab them over something else, even if they are on the dull side.

Regarding the horn. I’ve made it a little thicker but it feels really solid…. Just don’t drop it lol.

The longer horn feels so much nicer as it covers the top of my hand entirely where shorter horns poke into me.

At the end of the day I can always make another if it breaks so I’ll take the extra comfort

I definitely added more height up top and lowered the curve where your pinky goes so there is more space overall.

I can echo what Liam says. It is very very prone to tear out. It’s very wear resistant and I do love it once it’s done.. but working Osage is a royal pain.

My experience so far is that it's challenging but ok. Ripping a 1" board went fine, but not fast. I followed James Wright's video for planing highly figured wood and that's helping. Smoothing planing it really requires a blade kept very sharp. Also the frog needs to be set for a very narrow mouth to avoid tearout.

Next up is trying a scrub plane to get the thickness down. Should be interesting.

How bad is it to work with the Osage? I from what I understand it's one of the hardest woods in the US and I have not heard of anyone using it for anything other then fence posts....

I have never read anything about the totes being the same for both, I have never had a Bedrock so I am not sure about them, but I do not that the totes are different between the different years/types of Baileys. The early ones feel to short and do not fit my had as well as some of the later ones. I have had a couple type 8-9's and they hurt my hand to hold, but a type 19-20 fits better, but I end up selling them all anyway as I prefer the Millers Falls Craftsman's over the Stanley's anyway. Heck the later plastic totes on the Craftsman actually are the most comfortable for me to hold, but I wonder if your design would work well for me, looks like there is a lot of room for a persons hand.  My issue is large hands and bad arthritis, so when I find a plane that does not hurt me, I keep it, well unless I think I can make money off it, then I sell it LOL....